Umami crack powder

and why MSG is not the enemy.

The year is 2012. It’s a family Christmas on your Dad’s side and your auntie, who has a reputation as a bit of a foodie, has graced you with some pre-lunch nibbles in the form of what-would-later-be-called a grazing table. Nestled in amongst the fig paste and wafty blue cheeses there are two bowls, one containing olive oil and the other a mysterious powder that everyone can’t stop raving about.

It’s nutty, it’s spiced, it sticks to an oiled piece of bread like sand on wet feet after a day at the beach. Dukkah has been around for eons but, like all good things, remained uneaten by white people until it was discovered by an American mommy blogger and later appeared on the shelves of a Farro in Grey Lynn.

Hear me out. I love dukkah. Hell, I even posted a recipe for it. But something inside of me feels like it’s the beta version of a condiment that we haven’t quite stumbled upon yet. I want dippy powder 2.0. We only like dukkah attached to oiled bread? She’s giving pure top energy. Hun, I want food that’s vers.

Enter umami crack powder. She’s fierce, she’s spicy, she hits every single one of the five basic tastes. Not only does she taste good with a slab of bread she’s made for dusting across popcorn and roast taties, scattering into your schnitzel crumbs and shaking all over a rice bowl slathered in kewpie mayo.

Credit where credit’s due. This recipe is heavily influenced by Carla Lalli Music’s popcorn powder. I ain’t here reinventing the wheel folks. I’m finding things I like, and adding even more of what I like. Like a good culinary mokopuna I build upon the work of those that have gone before me. In my kitchen the upgrade involved toasted sesame for that heaven-sent scent, subbing in gochugaru cause it’s my chilli of choice, toasting brown rice ‘cause why the hell not, and adding dried orange peel cause I’m a fruity bitch.

One of the hero ingredients in this recipe is MSG, a powerful source of umami that’s been at the root of much controversy over the last fifty years. Rumoured to be the cause of migraines, sweats and heart palpitations, MSG’s bad-boy status finds its beginnings in a time when the United States not only discriminated against Chinese immigrants but actively worked to restrict their arrival and maintain a “pure” America.

Against a backdrop of fear of the outsider stealing jobs, letters and articles started appearing in newspapers across the country from readers suffering from “Chinese restaurant syndrome”, all supposedly blaming ill health on the Chinese food that had taken off in popularity. Given MSG’s presence as a flavouring agent in many Asian cuisines, it was chosen as the most likely scapegoat.

Poorly designed studies only served to reinforce the phenomenon – including the showstopper, where participants had 30 times more MSG than in a standard meal injected directly into their bloodstream – spurring an anti-MSG movement that was both factually incorrect and rooted in racism.

In the years since, incredibly high-quality studies have not only shown MSG to be totally safe but also confirmed that it’s fuckin’ delicious. As a concentrated form of glutamates, a natural occurring substance, it’s able to replicate the mouthwatering taste that exists in foods like parmesan cheese, tomato paste and mushrooms. Adding a pinch to meals is like having a secret weapon in your spice cupboard.

When your guests ask what you used to make such a badass bowl of popcorn, tell them it was MSG and politely school them on why it’s nothing to be afraid of.

UMAMI CRACK POWDER

A fiery, deeply savoury spice blend that’s made to be scattered over anything and everything. Gochugaru can be found in nearly every Asian supermarket so don’t skimp, but if you don’t have dried orange peel you can either use fresh or go all in and dry your own strips on the windowsill for a couple of days. Makes a heaping 1 cup of powder.

4 tablespoons sesame seeds
4 tablespoons nutritional yeast
3 tablespoons brown rice
2.5 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)
1 tablespoon dried orange peel (or use fresh strips)
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoon white sugar
1/2 teaspoon MSG
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon citric acid (or use 1t sumac)

Set a small, dry pan over medium-low heat. Toast sesame seeds, brown rice, orange peel and peppercorns in a dry pan, stirring frequently, until golden brown – about 5 minutes. You want to develop a gorgeous nutty colour on the seeds and rice. This is one of your flavour bases. Once toasted, set aside to cool.

Gather your remaining ingredients. Measure the citric acid with precision as it’s incredibly sour and will make or break the recipe. No pressure lol.

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Working in batches, half-fill your spice grinder with the mix and pulverise until you get a fine powder. Dump this into another bowl, then continue with the remaining mix.

Taste the freshly-ground powder. Does it need salt? More sugar? If so, add a little more to the spice grinder along with a spoonful of powder and blitz. Stir back through your bowl of powder.

That’s it! If the powder is too spicy or strong for your liking feel free to stretch it out with a couple of tablespoons of rice flour (or simply more toasted rice ground in your spice grinder). This is a great option if you’d like to save your $ and stretch the mix further to use as a dippy condiment on a grazing table.

Store at room temp. Keeps for 3 months.